BTC Water Overflow Setup

Overflow-2 Overflow-3 Overflow-1

We have had severn inquiries about our reservoir setup on BTC so I wanted to post an update.

We chose not to go with a DE-Gas bottle setup as we wanted to keep the setup clean and also not have to plumb and make fit the oversized DE-Gas bottles. We went with the old school setup and made it easier to mate to the FOX style radiator and also kept the engine bay clean.  We have several miles on the car, in HOT weather, and have never really ever went anywhere near 200 degrees on water temp… she seems to stay steady at 185.

The setup:  We mounted a Canton overflow bottle on the passenger side fender liner panel.  On the engine, there is a water housing with a long silver nipple that sticks straight up in the air.  We believe this to be the ‘fill’ point when the cars are at the factory, this way they can pressure fill the system.  This is also the highest point on the engine and perfect for the vent area.  From this nipple we ran some water hose to the bottom fitting on the reservoir.  Then the larger open nipple pointing at the radiator at the water housing connection we just capped this off, this is the connection for the DE-Gas bottle which we do not need.  Then since our reservoir radiator cap is higher than the radiator cap, we designed this setup for it to be the cap that would vent.  We used a 16lb cap on the reservoir and then a 19lb cap on the radiator, which really could just be a non-vented cap but we chose a ‘just in case’ option for it to spill over.  Then from both overflow nipples, we just ran water hose from that and down and out hidden to spill through the frame if overflow occurred.

See the noted images for help.

BTC Water Temp Sending Setup

Photo Hose2 Hose1 Hose3

We had to find a place to tap the water sending unit for our Coyote swap.  We are using the Autometer Ford Racing gauges and a sending unit is sent with it.  The new engine is not like your old school intakes and water ports are not readily available.  We checked out the water flow chart for the new 5.0 and found that the passenger side heater hose is hot water before the thermostat so it will suit us fine for a tap sensor.  Autometer has an adaptor to allow use of this 3/4″ hose.  It is the Autometer 2281 adaptor.  We were able to tap right above the fuel rail and tilted the adaptor just so, and it clears the engine cover.  A nice clean spot and hidden from view.

On the heater hoses.  This was easier than expected.  Just order you a set of factory 2011 5.0 hoses from a Ford parts source as the engine side connectors are quick connecters and the ends are not nippled for regular hose and clamps.  Then on the passenger side hose you can cut it off at the FOX location and secure it to the heater core input side. The sizes are the same.  Then on the driver side, we cut it off after its factory bend turned the corner behind the intake near the fire wall, then used a 5/8 hose adaptor/conector to connect it to a piece of 5/8 hose with a 90 degree end on it.  We picked this up from a local parts house.  Just ask to look at their hose rack in the back and find a 90 degree piece and measure to make sure it is a 5/8 size then you trim to fit and mount it to the return outlet on the heater core with the 90 degree end on the heater core and turning back to behind the intake.  Easy peasy.

 

2011 Heater Hose Part #s
18472A
 18472B

BTC Update: Tuning and Such

Photo_58

It’s been a while I know, after our major rush to finish the car and take it on tour this summer and the car being basically done, we took a moment to focus on some other tasks.  Another reason for some of the delay on progression was our ability to drive the car consistently/safely in traffic or trips.  There was a serious idle issue once you came to a stop and this just caused the car to die.   If you are physically doing this swap or have been following these Coyote swaps you know what we are referring to.

As of right now, we were able to get a ‘tune’ for the current idle issue from JMS Chip (contact them for more info). They have solved the majority of the issues as far as we can tell.  We still want a full blown tune and plan to head over to JMS in Mississippi in the coming months.  This will give us a solid tune to get the most power and drivability; and we will also be able to give you guys some numbers you have been hammering for. ;)

We are also hearing from several sources that Ford is working/suggesting that VSS be setup/modified on these swaps to help with the known idle issue.  We will be mapping this out soon in upcoming posts.

House Cleaning Updates:

1.  Clutch cable seems to have stretched and binded on us.  We are replacing that soon and also will be removing the ‘black’ support from the clutch fork, as it seems to be causing the clutch to not fully engage giving us some slip at 3rd and 4th low rpm pulls.  Anyone see this before?  Decking somewhere is causing plate finger height clearance for us we guess, the combo of the 5.0, 4.6l bell, 4.6l RAM clutch possibly.

2.  Front Sway Bar - We are going to try the High Flow Performance Coyote project setup they have working for now.  As some may or may not know clearance for a FOX swaybar is just not obtainable due to the Alternator location, and also the P/S if you have that in the A/C location.  We are going to take some SN95 swaybar brackets and mount them to the FOX location tabs in the engine bay.  Then use end links without the sleeves and space them with some washers.  It’s not pretty but its better than ‘NO’ swaybar.  It will hang low, but everything on the car hangs low. :)  Will post up our findings later.

3.  Exhaust – We are going to replace the Magnaflow Magnapak mufflers for their normal Oval mufflers they produce for the 5.0.  Don’t hear me wrong, the exhaust has a killer note and makes a statement with this setup, but it is really loud.  Maybe Im getting old but it just needs to be toned down a bit.  Driving softly constantly worried about a cop hearing you is no fun when all you really want to do is play a bit, not get everyone to look! :)

4.  Pedal Bracket Adaptor – For the swap we had designed a bracket for the swaps.  We currently are having these produced and plan to have them ready for sale at the beginning of the year.  This design will allow for easy installation in to any 79-04 Mustang and any project you have that utilizes a vertical firewall, like a kit car, truck etc.  We have a lot of requests for this part so stay tuned for more information.

Look for more detailed updates, I hope to start posting some more information about our project detailing some of the steps and components used.

Also, personally I have been very busy over at StangNet rebuilding our Forums to a new system and that took away my shop time for computer time. If you have not stopped by recently, please do and let us know what you think (http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums)!

Cheers, MRaburn.