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It’s time to clear our the Stable of our last project ‘Built to Cruise’. We have more projects in the pipeline and this Pony needs a new home. For all the details on the car and the build please follow the links below.
Contact Mike Raburn for details if interested… email@example.com
After several months of jumping through different tunes, tuners and solutions, we finally have applied a Ford Racing fix that they have come up with to address the Idle issues of the Coyote swap that many are seeing. After doing the following, the BTC project is running the stock Ford Racing tune and the drivability is stock as can be and perfect. All idle issues have been resolved and the car just ‘works’ now!
Basically the fix consists of taking a OSS signal from your transmission, converting the signal using a Speed Dial and sending it to the main PCM.
I have attached a work sheet that shows you the proper wiring and parts needed for the ‘fix’.
We had to run an additional 2 wires from under the dash out through the firewall and to the PCM we have mounted under the passenger side fender. We put the speed cal up under the gauge cluster. We already had wires under the dash going to the OSS on the TKO-500. Their worksheet specs out which OSS units to use, our TKO had the correct sending unit so we did not have to replace. The OSS was going to the Autometer electronic speedometer and still is but a bit differently. Originally one side of the OSS was going to ground to make the speedo work but the diagram needs the negative side going to a pin on the PCM.
How we have it Wired…
- One side of the OSS off the tranny going to the green wire on the Speed Dial. We also tapped this same wire and have that OSS signal going to the Speedo and you just calibrate it independently, do not count on the speed dial other side to give you correct ratio.
- White Wire on the Speed Dial going to T-14 on the PCM
- Other side of OSS on the tranny going to T-38 on the PCM
- Red Wire on Speed Dial going to Ignition ACC.
- Black Wire on Speed Dial going to body ground.
- Set DIP switches on Speed Dial to 1-1-1
What you need
- Ford Racing Speed Dial
- 2 Pin connectors (contact Ford Racing to acquire them) to solder to the new wires and plug into the 50 pin PCM plug (it is labeled as such)
When inserting the Pins into the PCM plug, first remove the white cap lock off the connector, just pry gently and it pops out of position (See picture above). Use patience putting them in and when you solder them, make sure the thickness and profile are the same as the 18 gauge wire so they will insert properly. We used a file to file down the solder where it was high in places.
Crank and boom!… It worked perfect for us and Im sure it will work perfect for you.
For a nearly complete list of parts we used on this project, please see the following link.
As mentioned earlier, we have installed the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System (www.isispower.com) to manage all the power functions of our 89 Mustang. We were basically able to remove all of the original factory wire harness… we did however keep the pigtails and short harness for the front and rear lights, this made wiring them up a little faster. Many more details to come in how we wired up our FOX but for now check out the cool feature you can use with the ISIS system, which is a true ‘push to start’ system, no key needed. Basically the system handles the procedures. When we depress the start button (hold it down), ISIS turns on the ignition (ACC), a power (positive) connection is made to the Ford Racing Control Pak ignition input wire, then ISIS waits 2 seconds, then it sends power to the starter wire connection on the control pak. The car then turns over to crank. Then once the car starts, we releasethe Start button and the car stays on and running. To turn the car off, you simply depress the start button again, and ISIS kills the ignition signal to the control pak and it turns off the motor. Who needs keys!? FYI – The ISIS comes with a key fob, if you depress the ‘Lock’ button, then all ignition and starter signals are locked and the car cannot be cranked, thus it cannot be hot wired… sorry!
As part of the ‘Built to Cruise‘ project here at StangNet, restoration of the 1989 Mustang was in order. We not only planned to convert the ‘Notch over to the new 2011 5.0 Coyote engine, but we wanted to give this 1989 a nice big refresh. The car’s interior was originally Blue but any Mustangfan knows the rare and not often found Black interior is the way to go. We wanted to document our adventure in converting this Notch over to having a black interior and share with you some of the techniques we learned along the way as well as where to find parts and what all products are needed to make it happen, in a ‘professional’ way so to speak. Jump on over and follow along as we give a brief overview of the details and we also hope that this may help down the road when refreshing your FOX Mustang. Article is over on our StangNet main blog.