After several months of jumping through different tunes, tuners and solutions, we finally have applied a Ford Racing fix that they have come up with to address the Idle issues of the Coyote swap that many are seeing.  After doing the following, the BTC project is running the stock Ford Racing tune and the drivability is stock as can be and perfect.  All idle issues have been resolved and the car just ‘works’ now!

Basically the fix consists of taking a OSS signal from your transmission, converting the signal using a Speed Dial and sending it to the main PCM.

I have attached a work sheet that shows you the proper wiring and parts needed for the ‘fix’.

M-6017-A504V OSS Hookup

We had to run an additional 2 wires from under the dash out through the firewall and to the PCM we have mounted under the passenger side fender.  We put the speed cal up under the gauge cluster.  We already had wires under the dash going to the OSS on the TKO-500.  Their worksheet specs out which OSS units to use, our TKO had the correct sending unit so we did not have to replace.  The OSS was going to the Autometer electronic speedometer and still is but a bit differently.  Originally one side of the OSS was going to ground to make the speedo work but the diagram needs the negative side going to a pin on the PCM.

How we have it Wired…

1. One side of the OSS off the tranny going to the green wire on the Speed Dial.  We also tapped this same wire and have that OSS signal going to the Speedo and you just calibrate it independently, do not count on the speed dial other side to give you correct ratio.
2. White Wire on the Speed Dial going to T-14 on the PCM
3. Other side of OSS on the tranny going to T-38 on the PCM
4. Red Wire on Speed Dial going to Ignition ACC.
5. Black Wire on Speed Dial going to body ground.
6. Set DIP switches on Speed Dial to 1-1-1

What you need

• Ford Racing Speed Dial
• 2 Pin connectors (contact Ford Racing to acquire them) to solder to the new wires and plug into the 50 pin PCM plug (it is labeled as such)

When inserting the Pins into the PCM plug, first remove the white cap lock off the connector, just pry gently and it pops out of position (See picture above).  Use patience putting them in and when you solder them, make sure the thickness and profile are the same as the 18 gauge wire so they will insert properly.  We used a file to file down the solder where it was high in places.

Crank and boom!… It worked perfect for us and Im sure it will work perfect for you.

For a nearly complete list of parts we used on this project, please see the following link.

http://www.stangnet.com/btc-parts

Push_to_Start.m4v Watch on Posterous

As mentioned earlier, we have installed the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System (www.isispower.com) to manage all the power functions of our 89 Mustang.  We were basically able to remove all of the original factory wire harness…  we did however keep the pigtails and short harness for the front and rear lights, this made wiring them up a little faster.  Many more details to come in how we wired up our FOX but for now check out the cool feature you can use with the ISIS system, which is a true ‘push to start’ system, no key needed.  Basically the system handles the procedures.  When we depress the start button (hold it down), ISIS turns on the ignition (ACC), a power (positive) connection is made to the Ford Racing Control Pak ignition input wire, then ISIS waits 2 seconds, then it sends power to the starter wire connection on the control pak.  The car then turns over to crank.  Then once the car starts, we releasethe Start button and the car stays on and running.  To turn the car off, you simply depress the start button again, and ISIS kills the ignition signal to the control pak and it turns off the motor. Who needs keys!?  FYI – The ISIS comes with a key fob, if you depress the ‘Lock’ button, then all ignition and starter signals are locked and the car cannot be cranked, thus it cannot be hot wired…  sorry!

As part of the ‘Built to Cruise‘ project here at StangNet, restoration of the 1989 Mustang was in order.  We not only planned to convert the ‘Notch over to the new 2011 5.0 Coyote engine, but we wanted to give this 1989 a nice big refresh.  The car’s interior was originally Blue but any Mustangfan knows the rare and not often found Black interior is the way to go.  We wanted to document our adventure in converting this Notch over to having a black interior and share with you some of the techniques we learned along the way as well as where to find parts and what all products are needed to make it happen, in a ‘professional’ way so to speak.  Jump on over and follow along as we give a brief overview of the details and we also hope that this may help down the road when refreshing your FOX Mustang.  Article is over on our StangNet main blog.

We converted a stock Blue cloth interior to all black with leather GT seats in the Mach1 style.  Shout out to TMI Products for them working with us to pull off a nice interior upgrade.  From TMI we have the Mach1 seats in Leather with all new foam, their new Coupe headliner and their awesome door panels with some of our own custom touches.  Half the interior hard plastic parts are originally in black purhcased from Prestige Mustang and the rest of the original parts were painted to match using some Late Model Restoration interior paint and some PPG Jet Black die.

We have had severn inquiries about our reservoir setup on BTC so I wanted to post an update.

We chose not to go with a DE-Gas bottle setup as we wanted to keep the setup clean and also not have to plumb and make fit the oversized DE-Gas bottles. We went with the old school setup and made it easier to mate to the FOX style radiator and also kept the engine bay clean.  We have several miles on the car, in HOT weather, and have never really ever went anywhere near 200 degrees on water temp… she seems to stay steady at 185.

The setup:  We mounted a Canton overflow bottle on the passenger side fender liner panel.  On the engine, there is a water housing with a long silver nipple that sticks straight up in the air.  We believe this to be the ‘fill’ point when the cars are at the factory, this way they can pressure fill the system.  This is also the highest point on the engine and perfect for the vent area.  From this nipple we ran some water hose to the bottom fitting on the reservoir.  Then the larger open nipple pointing at the radiator at the water housing connection we just capped this off, this is the connection for the DE-Gas bottle which we do not need.  Then since our reservoir radiator cap is higher than the radiator cap, we designed this setup for it to be the cap that would vent.  We used a 16lb cap on the reservoir and then a 19lb cap on the radiator, which really could just be a non-vented cap but we chose a ‘just in case’ option for it to spill over.  Then from both overflow nipples, we just ran water hose from that and down and out hidden to spill through the frame if overflow occurred.

We had to find a place to tap the water sending unit for our Coyote swap.  We are using the Autometer Ford Racing gauges and a sending unit is sent with it.  The new engine is not like your old school intakes and water ports are not readily available.  We checked out the water flow chart for the new 5.0 and found that the passenger side heater hose is hot water before the thermostat so it will suit us fine for a tap sensor.  Autometer has an adaptor to allow use of this 3/4″ hose.  It is the Autometer 2281 adaptor.  We were able to tap right above the fuel rail and tilted the adaptor just so, and it clears the engine cover.  A nice clean spot and hidden from view.

On the heater hoses.  This was easier than expected.  Just order you a set of factory 2011 5.0 hoses from a Ford parts source as the engine side connectors are quick connecters and the ends are not nippled for regular hose and clamps.  Then on the passenger side hose you can cut it off at the FOX location and secure it to the heater core input side. The sizes are the same.  Then on the driver side, we cut it off after its factory bend turned the corner behind the intake near the fire wall, then used a 5/8 hose adaptor/conector to connect it to a piece of 5/8 hose with a 90 degree end on it.  We picked this up from a local parts house.  Just ask to look at their hose rack in the back and find a 90 degree piece and measure to make sure it is a 5/8 size then you trim to fit and mount it to the return outlet on the heater core with the 90 degree end on the heater core and turning back to behind the intake.  Easy peasy.

We have the MGW (www.mgwltd.com) shifter installed in our TKO 500.  All is well and it feels great.  (Note:  The dust boot is removed for the pictures).  The 5-speed Rally Shifter Ball is from MGW as well.  Silver stripe matches the car nice.

It’s been a while I know, after our major rush to finish the car and take it on tour this summer and the car being basically done, we took a moment to focus on some other tasks.  Another reason for some of the delay on progression was our ability to drive the car consistently/safely in traffic or trips.  There was a serious idle issue once you came to a stop and this just caused the car to die.   If you are physically doing this swap or have been following these Coyote swaps you know what we are referring to.

As of right now, we were able to get a ‘tune’ for the current idle issue from JMS Chip (contact them for more info). They have solved the majority of the issues as far as we can tell.  We still want a full blown tune and plan to head over to JMS in Mississippi in the coming months.  This will give us a solid tune to get the most power and drivability; and we will also be able to give you guys some numbers you have been hammering for.

2.  Front Sway Bar - We are going to try the High Flow Performance Coyote project setup they have working for now.  As some may or may not know clearance for a FOX swaybar is just not obtainable due to the Alternator location, and also the P/S if you have that in the A/C location.  We are going to take some SN95 swaybar brackets and mount them to the FOX location tabs in the engine bay.  Then use end links without the sleeves and space them with some washers.  It’s not pretty but its better than ‘NO’ swaybar.  It will hang low, but everything on the car hangs low.  Will post up our findings later.

3.  Exhaust – We are going to replace the Magnaflow Magnapak mufflers for their normal Oval mufflers they produce for the 5.0.  Don’t hear me wrong, the exhaust has a killer note and makes a statement with this setup, but it is really loud.  Maybe Im getting old but it just needs to be toned down a bit.  Driving softly constantly worried about a cop hearing you is no fun when all you really want to do is play a bit, not get everyone to look!